May 12-14, 2004

Panajachel, is nicknamed Gringotenango (Place of foreigners). Pana is one of Guatemala’s oldest tourist towns .In the 60’s and 70’s it was crowded with laid back tourists however when the civil war broke out in the late 70’s 80’s it was too dangerous and many left. The town’s tourism has flourished again and even to many of the near villages. There is quite a mix of culture you have the Ladinos and Gringos, the Cakchiquel and Tz’utuhil Maya and Lakeside villa owners from Guatemala. It is the lakeshore of Lake Atitlan that really attracts people surrounded by volcanoes . Located in the highlands of Guatemala. The traditions and customs of Guatemalans is strongest in the highlands. Mayan dialects are first and then Spanish. The old age culture based on corn is still alive. AA sturdy cottage set in the midst of a cornfield is a common site and on every road you can find men women and children carrying firewood to be used for heating and cooking.

To get here we left Coban on a chicken bus to Guatemala City about 4 hours with this refurbished painted school bus barreling down the mountainside from Coban On the way down it stops at these small towns and vendors get on the bus to sell their snacks and drinks. The best is the dried fried bananas for like $.25 a bag and water in plastic bags. At one of the stops we witnessed a fight and all were around to watch. Unusual it was two women just smacking and pulling hair(which they have once it is out of the bun, long thick black hair.).A man tried to stop it and another women stopped him. Apparently it was over a “matrimonial status”.

Next we were to connect to another bus to Panajachel however Kevin found this van that sits 13 to take us for $2.00 a person so it looked comfortable and it would be faster we opted for it and the driver said “directo” Once again we were speeding down these winding rainy roads and were starting to be concerned for safety. As he continued on there were many stops women carrying propane tanks to be filled, some with children coughing and runny noses, some school children. At one time I counted 25 people on this van that holds 13. This was just another cultural experience in a third world country.

We got to Panajachel at about 7:00pm and it was raining so we took the first hotel we found after this long day (9 hrs.) of traveling Primavera Hotel which was right on the main street but very nice$25. a room. Rich wasn’t yet up to par in feeling well so he didn’t go out with us. Betty Kevin Peter and my self went to a bar and had some happy hour drinks and soup and sandwiches with good conversations.
The next day it rained on and off but a tropical rain so we did lots of shopping of Guatemala wares and crafts . Pat had a hard time with the Quetzal (money) conversions so she couldn’t bargain as fast as she wanted too. You usually end up paying 30% less then what they ask. Our big buy was two hand embroided yes hand bedspreads they are beautiful The bargaining started out with 800Q and she got them for 35Q a little less then $40. each. We also bought pillow covers hand done and many little trinkets and placemats etc. for gifts. We met and talked to many families and even the children were selling it is sad however they aren’t all dealing with school and therefore they learn to make money mostly for survival. We had to change hotels today because the hotel was booked with reservations. We just went down the street and found one called Posada de Los Volcanes. It was similar price and had a view of the volcanoes thus it’s name. That night with everyone feeling healthy again we went to a Tapia restaurant which was good. We made arrangements thru the hotel to take a boat ride on the Lake the next day to some of the villages. We found it is much better to make reservations thru the hotel rather then the street people or travel agent. They all have different prices and it is usually the same tour company. Go figure that.
Today we only have a half day here because we want to get to Antigua by tonight and the proprietor of the hotel will drive us about 2-3 hours leaving at noon. He has a fare to pick up in Antigua and promises we are the only ones going not 20 others. He speaks good English and so we believe.

Lake Atitlan is a collapsed volcanic cone filled with waters to a depth more than 320 meters it is surrounded by colorful hillside. There are three powerful Volcanoes Volcan Toliman, Volcan Atitlan, and Volcan San Pedro We took a Panga ride to two of the villages surrounding the lake. Each village has it’s own Maya history and dress that is what makes them all different. The first village we went to was San Pedro La Laguna. It is heavily populated by bohemian travelers who stay there Coffee is grown and picked and apparently during the season it is laid to dry wherever. Marijuana is also a big crop here and apperntly among the cheapest in Guatemala. As we arrived by the boat,(Panga) boys greeet you and offer to be your guide thru the town. We stopped for breakfast and walked up a huge cobblestone hill unlike any in San Francisco to the center of town. It was market day. Chickens being bought still walking and ladies carrying them by the legs home to be slaughtered and feathered. Guess we won’t have chicken this week . Huge vegetables being sold for minimal cost as in all the country. That and the large church was the highlight for us because we only had an hour. There are also thermal baths here and hikes up to the Volcano San Pedro if you wanted to spend more time..We were back on the Panga and in 20 minutes over to the next Village Santiago. The boys were there again at the dock offering to be our guide however George our panga driver offered to guide us thru. It was also market day here and so the streets were narrowed and crowded. We were looking to buy a blouse(blusa?) embroided by hand and we found and bargined for it. Beautiful. Santiago is squeezed between two volcanoes and so it has nice views.It is the most visited village however it is able to cling to it’s traditional lifestyle and culture of the Tz’utuhil Maya.Santiago honors Maximon “A God is a God is a God” The Spanish call him San Simon and the Maya knew him as RyLaj Man. By any name he is diety revered through out Guatemala highlands. In Santiago ,locals worship a wooden figure draped in colorful scarves smoking a fat cigar.bringing gifts of cigarettes and rum. There is also a couple centuries old church within are statues of wooden saints and every year the natives make new clothes for them. On the carved pulpit there are figures of corn (from which humans are formed according to the Maya) as well as the Quetzal bird and Yum-Kax,the Maya god of corn. In the back of the church is a memorial plaque commemorating Father Stanley F.Rother,a missionary from Oklahoma who was murdered in the church by ultra rightist ‘death squad’ in 1981.
We had a short but fun triip on the lake and made it back to the hotel for the noon van. Of all the travels here in Guatemala I would try next time to spend lots more time right here at Lake Atitlan. They also have language schools at all these towns so that would also be a nice thing to do. Off to Antigua, Guatemala. for more adventure.

        
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